I know what you’re thinking…
How do I get the coupler on the shaft?
The tolerance between the diameter of the motor shaft and the bore of the coupler is very tight. Some of our fellow brewers have had trouble getting the coupler on their motor shaft. If you run into this dilema, you may want to try one (or more) of these tricks which have been used:
1. Use some light oil on both the shaft and the coupler.
2. Use some very fine sandpaper or emery cloth to lightly sand down the bore of the coupler.
3. Heat the coupler and cool the shaft. Then, try to slide the coupler onto the shaft while the coupler is still warm.
4. With a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet, lightly tap the coupler onto the shaft.
Hope this helps!
The wiring of the motor is very straight forward, but we always recommend that a licensed electrician who is familiar with motor wiring be consulted before any connections are made.
Because these motors can be used with either 110 Volt or 220 Volt current, and because wiring is different for each current, it is important to know the Voltage of the electrical current being used.
Please click here to read written suggestions for wiring the motor.
Remember, with 110 Volt current, no matter which direction of rotation is selected, the number 1 motor wire will always be connected to the upper terminal associated with the lower terminal to which you connect the hot wire from your switch.
With 110 Volt current, the number 4 motor wire will always be connected to the upper terminal which corresponds with the lower terminal where the neutral wire from your power source is connected.
There are six upper terminals and six corresponding lower terminals on the electrical bus located in the junction box mounted on the motor. For 110V current, you will use only two of the upper terminals, and the two corresponding lower terminals. It does not matter which two upper terminals you use. The terminals are only for connecting the wires from the motor (on the upper terminals) to the wires from your power source (on the lower terminals).
If installed, a wiring diagram is located on the information plate mounted on the top of the motor.
110 Volt current is considered “low voltage”.
220 Volt current is considered “high voltage”.
Also, as a side note, if you are into overkill, and want to put your motor on steroids, then consider using 220 Volt current. However, be careful. Although the Lovejoy couplers are designed to shear before damage occurs to components, the torque produced by these motors on 110 Volt current is more than enough to shear couplers and shafts. Running the motor on 220 Volt current will increase the possibility of shearing couplers and / or shafts.
Hope this helps!
Many of our fellow brewers have asked “which model is best for my application”?
The generally accepted ideal speed for milling grain (for beer brewing) is between 150 and 250 RPM. Faster speeds shred the grain, and reduce the efficiency of starch conversion in the mash. Faster milling speeds also create more dust. Slower milling speeds take valuable time.
Our 180 RPM model is a workhorse, which is perfect for all applications where large quantities of grain (more than several hundred pounds of grain per week) are not being milled, and time saved is not as much of an issue.
The 240 RPM model is offered for applications where large quantities of grain are being milled, and the one rotary per second faster speed helps to reduce the amount of time taken for milling.
Both the 180 and the 240 have more than enough torque for any milling application – even starting with a full hopper – and both models provide smooth, steady, even milling, with no hesitation.
Hope this helps!
OK, so there has been a great deal of discussion about whether or not to configure the motor / mill setup with a reversing function. Is it needed? Will it ever come in handy? Can you do without it?
For me, I like to stay with the KISS philosophy, but many of our fellow brewers have found the reversing option to be worthwhile. The motor runs with the same amount of power in either direction of shaft rotation, so power is not an issue. One of our fellow brewers accidentally dropped a rag into the hopper while the mill was running. He was able to back the rag out by reversing the motor. Others have been able to back the mill shaft by hand when a situation arose which called for the shaft to turn in the opposite direction from what is used to mill grain. As far as I know, all mills will only draw grain into the rollers by turning in one direction. The only reason you would run the mill in the opposite direction would be to undo a jam of some sort. So, if that is a concern, then perhaps a reversing configuration may have some merit, and be worth the extra effort and expense to install. Although there are several ways to configure the motor for reversing operation, the best way I have seen is to use a “drum” switch, which is specifically designed for a motor application. They are a little pricey, but if you want the correct part for the job, this is the way to go. Here is a link for a drum switch offered by Zoro.
Drum switches are sold by many different vendors, and are available in several styles.
In closing, let me emphasize the importance of correct wiring for the motor, switch, plug, etc. We recommend that a licensed electrician who is familiar with motor wiring be consulted before any connections are made.
Hope this helps!